Collection: Boxing Gloves

Weight refers to the amount of padding, not how heavy the glove feels to punch with. As a rough starting point: under 55kg, look at 10–12oz; 55–70kg, 12–14oz; 70–85kg, 14–16oz; above 85kg, 16oz or heavier. Then adjust for what you're doing. Bag and pad work can go lighter, sparring should go heavier, and most gyms require 16oz for sparring regardless of your size. If you only want one pair for everything, 14oz or 16oz training gloves cover the widest range of sessions.

Most gloves fall into four categories. Bag gloves have firmer, denser padding built to protect your knuckles against heavy bag and pad work, and they tend to be lighter and more compact. Training gloves (sometimes sold as all-purpose gloves) are the middle ground, with enough padding to spar lightly and enough structure for bag rounds, which makes them the usual first pair. Sparring gloves use softer, thicker foam spread across a wider striking surface to protect your partner rather than you, and they normally start at 16oz. Competition gloves are the lightest and least padded, built to meet the rules of a specific sanctioning body, so check what your federation requires before buying.

You'll also see a closure choice. Velcro straps let you get in and out on your own and suit most people training solo. Lace-ups give a tighter, more supportive fit around the wrist but need a coach or training partner to tie them, so they're mainly used for fights and dedicated sparring pairs.

Air them out after every session instead of sealing them in your gym bag, which is where the smell and the breakdown of the lining both start. Pull the gloves open, stand them upright somewhere with airflow, and wipe the inside with a dry cloth or an antibacterial wipe. Cedar inserts or glove deodorisers help if you're training several times a week. Always wear hand wraps, since they absorb most of the sweat that would otherwise soak into the padding. Keep leather gloves out of direct sun and away from heaters, and never put any glove in the washing machine or dryer. Looked after properly, a decent pair should give you a couple of years of regular training.

Leather gloves are made from real hide, usually cowhide or occasionally goatskin. They're more breathable, mould to your hand over a few weeks of use, and hold up far better to heavy bag work over the long run. The trade-off is price and upkeep, since leather needs a bit of care and takes longer to break in.

PU gloves use a polyurethane synthetic outer, sometimes sold under names like engineered leather, Maya hide or Skintex. They're cheaper, ready to use straight out of the box with no break-in, wipe clean easily and don't absorb moisture the way leather can. Quality varies a lot between brands, though, and cheaper PU tends to crack or peel at the flex points after a year or so of regular training. They're also the obvious choice if you want a vegan option.

As a rule of thumb, PU makes sense if you're new, training a couple of times a week, or not ready to spend much on a first pair. Leather is worth the extra if you're training most days or want a pair that will still be going in a few years' time.